A Little Bit About Screen Printing

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I don’t remember how I was first exposed to screen printing. I must have seen something about it on Popular Mechanics for Kids or one of several other “science is cool” children’s shows I loved watching in the 90’s. All I know is that I’ve had a goal of learning the skill for a very long time.

A Little Bit About Screen Printing \\ Sophster-Toaster Blog

Luckily for me, I unknowingly married a man who shared this goal. My husband’s father had been a graphic design and screen printing teacher for a prisoner rehabilitation program – before the program was discontinued and the prison ultimately closed due to lack of funding – and he had always been interested in picking up the skill himself. He had never seen the full process, since his father made the screens at work and brought them home to print side projects, but had fond memories of printing with his father. My husbands and his father’s experience and knowledge gave us a huge head start, but many things had changed since the 90’s and we knew we wanted to do things a little differently.

We wanted to make our process as ethical and environmentally friendly as possible. We chose to use eco-friendly water based inks instead of the petroleum inks my father-in-law had used, even though they can be more difficult to work with. We sourced biodegradable versions of all the prep and clean up chemicals we would need. We elected to use American Apparel t-shirt blanks because they were the only brand we could find that is still made in North America (by well treated employees), plus they offer organic cotton. Finally, for economical and environmental reasons, we opted to reclaim and repair my father-in-law’s old screens instead of buying new ones.

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All this concern over ethical and sustainable practices can really take its toll on the efficiency and profitability of production, but we think it’s worth it. We make the screens by hand by coating them with a photosensitive emulsion, exposing my designs onto them and washing out the unexposed areas to create a negative. We then load, print and heat set each t-shirt by hand, one at a time. It’s a long, sometimes fun, sometimes frustrating process but, in the end, we create a product that we are proud to stand behind.

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Top Sophster-Toaster
Skirt Sophster-Toaster
Shoes ModCloth (another colour)

All photos by me.

May Favourites

The May flowers came a little late this year but the weather is finally warming up. Windows are starting to open in the afternoon, fresh spring produce is popping up at the local farmers’ market, and the outdoor artisan market season is in full bloom. Here are my favourite things for the month of May – all inspired by local artists and makers.

1. Travel and Wanderlust Inspired Accessories

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Dawning Collective’s Spyglass Necklace

2. 1920’s & Flapper Style

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BOKO’s Beaded Bag in Teal Green

3. Geometric Birdfeeders

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Moore Design Birdfeeders’ Oriole Feeder

4. Everything Strawberry

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Leikey’s Strawberry Brooch

5. Reminders to Stay Positive

May Favourites \\ Sophster-Toaster Blog

Merchant Handcraft’s In Hoop Everything Will Probably Be Okay Cross Stitch

 

Girl’s Best Friend Dress

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When I first found this fabric, I knew I wanted to go all out with the dress I would design for it. The quirky, somewhat organic shapes and patterns of this amazing corgi and balloon print made it perfect for hiding extra cuts, panels and seams. This meant I could give the dress a super full skirt without worrying about the pattern repeat matching up perfectly. When I decided the skirt would have a centre seam, I knew the perfect bodice to pair it with: an open back, centre and princess seam bodice from a 1956 vintage dress pattern I found years ago when I first started sewing clothing for others.

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It’s been a few years since I’ve made a fully lined dress. I made a few when I first started working as a dressmaker but I found people weren’t into the higher prices that resulted from all the extra time and fabric. Now that I’m more established, I’m finding the opposite true. For a while it seemed like every review I received was lamenting the fact that my dresses weren’t fully lined. So this spring, I decided to try something new/ get back to my roots and design a line of fully lined dresses and skirts.

When I first sat down to do my sourcing, I knew my goal of finding a way to increase the quality and value of my work, without increasing my prices out of the purview of my current customer base, would be a difficult one. I decided to switch from a stiff and sturdy eco cotton to a delicate, less expensive but still very nice 100% cotton voile. It has always been important to me than my linings are soft and made from natural fibres, as they sit close to the skin, so naturally, I was very excited to find this luxurious 100% cotton voile. This light and gauzy material is much better suited to skirt linings than the fabric I was using to line bodices before, so it was an easy choice once I finally found the right supplier.

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Then, like the cherry on top of a cake, I added a pretty vintage button from my Grandmother’s generous collection to the band at the back neckline. I love using my grandma’s buttons because although every dress is made with the same size and colour of button, every one is unique and every dress is special.

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Dress Sophster-Toaster
Shoes ModCloth (different colour)
Petticoat ModCloth (different colour)
Hair Bow Sophster-Toaster
Earrings a street market in Panama

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All photos by me. 

April Favourites

I’ve been so busy this past month, I’ve barely noticed how cold it still is outside. A week spent on vacation near the equator and knowing that Victoria Day, the official start of summer in Canada, is only a few weeks away have me thinking of nothing but sunshine and patio time. It’s the end of April and here are my current obsessions:

1. Cute broaches and lapel pins that people will actually be able to see when we don’t have to wear coats anymore.

April Favourites \\ Sophster-Toaster Blog

Little Arrow’s Rotary Dial Telephone Lapel Pin in Mint

2. Pretty Pastels

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For the Host’s Mini Wood Salt and Pepper Shaker Set

3. Warm Weather Walking Shoes

ModCloth’s Heart Skipped a Beach Flat

4. A sturdy new bathing suit for serious swimming and water sports.

April Favourites \\ Sophster-Toaster Blog

Seea’s Hermosa One Piece in Florencia / Coral Palm

5. Evening strolls through the neighbourhood with ice cream.

April Favourites \\ Sophster-Toaster Blog

Kindah’s Ice Cream & Sprinkles Mini Zipper Clutch