A Little Bit About Screen Printing

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I don’t remember how I was first exposed to screen printing. I must have seen something about it on Popular Mechanics for Kids or one of several other “science is cool” children’s shows I loved watching in the 90’s. All I know is that I’ve had a goal of learning the skill for a very long time.

A Little Bit About Screen Printing \\ Sophster-Toaster Blog

Luckily for me, I unknowingly married a man who shared this goal. My husband’s father had been a graphic design and screen printing teacher for a prisoner rehabilitation program – before the program was discontinued and the prison ultimately closed due to lack of funding – and he had always been interested in picking up the skill himself. He had never seen the full process, since his father made the screens at work and brought them home to print side projects, but had fond memories of printing with his father. My husbands and his father’s experience and knowledge gave us a huge head start, but many things had changed since the 90’s and we knew we wanted to do things a little differently.

We wanted to make our process as ethical and environmentally friendly as possible. We chose to use eco-friendly water based inks instead of the petroleum inks my father-in-law had used, even though they can be more difficult to work with. We sourced biodegradable versions of all the prep and clean up chemicals we would need. We elected to use American Apparel t-shirt blanks because they were the only brand we could find that is still made in North America (by well treated employees), plus they offer organic cotton. Finally, for economical and environmental reasons, we opted to reclaim and repair my father-in-law’s old screens instead of buying new ones.

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All this concern over ethical and sustainable practices can really take its toll on the efficiency and profitability of production, but we think it’s worth it. We make the screens by hand by coating them with a photosensitive emulsion, exposing my designs onto them and washing out the unexposed areas to create a negative. We then load, print and heat set each t-shirt by hand, one at a time. It’s a long, sometimes fun, sometimes frustrating process but, in the end, we create a product that we are proud to stand behind.

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Top Sophster-Toaster
Skirt Sophster-Toaster
Shoes ModCloth (another colour)

All photos by me.

Girl’s Best Friend Dress

Girl's Best Friend Dress \\ Sophster-Toaster Blog

When I first found this fabric, I knew I wanted to go all out with the dress I would design for it. The quirky, somewhat organic shapes and patterns of this amazing corgi and balloon print made it perfect for hiding extra cuts, panels and seams. This meant I could give the dress a super full skirt without worrying about the pattern repeat matching up perfectly. When I decided the skirt would have a centre seam, I knew the perfect bodice to pair it with: an open back, centre and princess seam bodice from a 1956 vintage dress pattern I found years ago when I first started sewing clothing for others.

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It’s been a few years since I’ve made a fully lined dress. I made a few when I first started working as a dressmaker but I found people weren’t into the higher prices that resulted from all the extra time and fabric. Now that I’m more established, I’m finding the opposite true. For a while it seemed like every review I received was lamenting the fact that my dresses weren’t fully lined. So this spring, I decided to try something new/ get back to my roots and design a line of fully lined dresses and skirts.

When I first sat down to do my sourcing, I knew my goal of finding a way to increase the quality and value of my work, without increasing my prices out of the purview of my current customer base, would be a difficult one. I decided to switch from a stiff and sturdy eco cotton to a delicate, less expensive but still very nice 100% cotton voile. It has always been important to me than my linings are soft and made from natural fibres, as they sit close to the skin, so naturally, I was very excited to find this luxurious 100% cotton voile. This light and gauzy material is much better suited to skirt linings than the fabric I was using to line bodices before, so it was an easy choice once I finally found the right supplier.

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Then, like the cherry on top of a cake, I added a pretty vintage button from my Grandmother’s generous collection to the band at the back neckline. I love using my grandma’s buttons because although every dress is made with the same size and colour of button, every one is unique and every dress is special.

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Dress Sophster-Toaster
Shoes ModCloth (different colour)
Petticoat ModCloth (different colour)
Hair Bow Sophster-Toaster
Earrings a street market in Panama

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All photos by me. 

Panama Pajamas

Panama Pajamas \\ Sophster-Toaster Blog

These are my favourite pajamas of all time. The only others that come close are the polka dot nighties my mom made for me when I was a kid – she had to make a second one when I grew out of the first one – that were nearly identical to this adult version. They are light, elegant and modest enough to wear when travelling with friends of the opposite gender. And the best part is, I got them on sale for only $8! Of course I knew I had to pack them for a girl’s week in Panama with my mom to celebrate her 50th birthday.

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It was my second ever airplane trip and my first since the year 2000. I was clueless when it came to packing my carry-on bag and the contents read like a list of my favourite things:

  • snacks for the plane (beef jerky and blueberry Greek yogurt granola bars)
  • one DSLR camera (Nikon D5100)
  • one waterproof disposable camera (Fujifilm QuickSnap Waterproof)
  • two books (Philip Hoare’s The Whale: In Search of the Giants of the Sea and Alice Munro’s Lives of Girls and Women)
  • one pair of sunglasses
  • two pairs of pajamas (including these)
  • one blouse

I would have been in a whole lot of trouble if the airline had lost my suitcase, but I would have saved my most cherished possessions from a life in The Land of Lost Luggage.

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Pajamas ModCloth (old)
Velcro Rollers Shoppers Drug Mart (Pink & Blue)

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All photos by me.

Worker Bee

Worker Bee \\ Sophster-Toaster Blog

When I was born in the late 80s, my parents gave me a popular Canadian first name, my mother’s British middle name and my father’s Irish last name. Although my first name, Melissa, is of Greek origin, meaning bee, it was quite common at the time in Canada, placing in the top 20 baby names of that year. My parents did a great job of representing my complete heritage in just three names. Now that I’m married and have taken the last name of a man – because I’m romantic like that – with English and Scottish ancestors, I sometimes feel like I’ve lost a little piece of myself. Perhaps that’s why I’m always careful to keep my Irish/Canadian family traditions alive.

Worker Bee \\ Sophster-Toaster BlogWorker Bee \\ Sophster-Toaster Blog

One of the most important and valued things I’ve inherited from my Irish ancestors is the strong work ethic and fearless desire for something better that each generation has instilled in the next since arriving in Canada at the height of the Potato Famine. Though eating porridge with lots buttered toast, for dipping, will always be a close second.

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I can’t help thinking about my family while working hard to keep up with orders and prepare for market season on this sunny St. Patrick’s Day. Though the hard part may be over for us, that never quit, never give up attitude passed down from my great-grandparents, to my grandparents, to my parents is still alive in me today. That endless list of personal and professional ideas, goals and plans that anyone else would see as unrealistic and unachievable ebbs and flows as we do the things that once seemed impossible and make even bigger plans for the future. To me, this (and porridge with toast) is what it means to be an Irish-Canadian.

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Dress ModCloth (old)
Tights ModCloth (other colours)
Slippers White Noise Maker
Necklace Suzy Shier (old)
Earrings I’ve had as long as I can remember

Worker Bee \\ Sophster-Toaster Blog

Visit the Sophter-Toaster shop for all the handmade goodies in my studio, or, better yet, come see them at Many Hands Market on April 3rd in St. Catharines!

All photos by me.